Italy trip: Sorrento & Naples
After Rome, we headed further south and off the Costco travel package to visit a few more places. In general, we found Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast to be sooo crowded with tourists that it didn't feel like Italy to us anymore...more like the typical beachy resort anywhere in the world. But Naples was totally the real deal of authentic Italian where most people didn't speak any English. Read on for the details of the sites & foods we experienced.
Sorrento
- Rode bus from Rome to Sorrento - slower, but only direct method so it was the easiest to navigate with our luggage. It took 4+ hours though.
- Ulisse Deluxe Hostel - luxury hostel that was pretty much like a hotel. A little hard to find though but we eventually found it after some walking and asking. :) And once we knew where it was, then it was a 20 min walk to the train station. It was also nice to have free wifi in the lobby so we could email family.
- Inn Bufalito - all things buffalo. We got the taster platter of buffalo mozarella and it was soooo much cheese, but very yummy. The stuffed piece of buffalo (bread, cheese & veggies), buffalo stew and buffalo ragu over pasta were also very good. We actually came here twice and liked everything we ordered!
- Shopped at the Carpisa store where their logo is a turtle!!! =D
- Limoncello - so many places to try it from! We started not being able to tell them apart. But I really liked the strong, fragrant lemon-y flavor. Though it was a bit strong for me...
- We got tired of Italian food one night (heaven forbid!!!) and grabbed some kebab gyros and they were really good! totally hit the spot for us and allowed us a small break for a meal.
- Ristorante Delfino - a downhill walk to marina del grande from our hotel (a little dangerous because no sidewalk and cars were going by very fast)
- Bob got the sea bream with parsley sauce which he really enjoyed.
- I got the spaghetti w/clams and marveled once again at how much better pasta was in Italy
- We both really loved the bread & olive oil too
- sorbet @ Davide Gelataria was super yum! We liked both of the flavors we tried. The limon was clean & simple and tart & sweet, while the profumi di Sorrento was an intense mix of citrus that totally wow'd me
- Primavera gelato - pricey but yummy walnut and lots of weird flavors (not the organic/natural kind tho)
- The Circumvesuviana is a commuter train that runs between Naples and Sorrento (and maybe more?)...kinda like BART. It was cheap and pretty easy to use as long as you made sure to get your ticket validated!
- Pompeii
- spent 1/2 day here with RS audio tour
- this was really a middle class town and was covered in 30 ft of ash
- impressive engineering from their street washing and the 1-3 stones to avoid getting wet and designate what kind of street it was (1-way, 2-way, main throughfare), aqueduct arches and lead pipes
- discovered that they were really just like us with their gyms, bath houses and fast food joints
- they even used brick pizza ovens just like now!
- the brothel had a fresco with the menu because prostitutes were often foreigners so customers could just point to what they wanted
- Herculaneum
- this rich seaport was buried under 60 ft of hot mud/lava
- well-preserved frescoes, beach was extended because of all the lava
- definitely more intimate than Pompeii with a lot less people
| Forum of Pompeii with Mt. Vesuvius in the background. |
- SITA bus ride to Amalfi was super curvy, but beautiful views
- Amalfi town
- Interesting Byzantine/Moorish cathedral - stepped in to experience mass for a few mins.
- Paper Museum was a small museum that was kinda neat but made completely worth it when I got to try making paper
- The walk through town was interesting w/one-way street filled with pedestrians, cars and scooters all trying to squeeze their way through. Bob really liked one shop's "viagra naturale" sign over their chili peppers.
- Positano
- super steep town, very quaint and fun to walk
- had a yummy deli lunch of marinated artichokes, tomatoes, bread and marinated anchovies
- Also tried the baba rum here which is a sponge cake soaked in rum...pretty simple, very strong on the alcohol, not that great
- the beach was quite rocky so we didn't stay there long
- boat back was a nice change from the bus and quicker too
- PIZZA
- by the slice from a streetside vendor (attached to restaurant) in front for museum for lunch - just pointed and it was really quite delicious
- Da Michele - The crust was perfection, but the toppings were pretty scarce for my liking. still delicious though and so cheap!
- The other famous pizza place, Trianon, was closed, unfortunately
- Archaeological Museum
- frescoes from Pompeii - it's like our wallpapers/windows today! Also their way of making their home feel bigger, airier, etc.
- statues of Hercules (nice butt!), Dorofino (ideal form of man), and the bull one were impressive
- The secret room and mosaics were closed for restoration! :(
- The City itself
- I doubt we'll ever go back to Naples...the city is quite intense. It was nice to visit and see, but a little stressful as a tourist because you feel like you totally stick out and are therefore an easy target.
- We were almost fined for not validating our metro ticket but it was just one stop and the guy let us go. Thank goodness! I mean...we definitely looked for the place to validate, but we didn't see it! The metro was pretty confusing from the train station because we weren't sure which stairs led to train platforms and which ones led to the metro. But I guess the validating machine was at the top of the stairs before we came down.
- Bob almost got pick-pocketed when someone unzipped a pocket of his backpack...but he caught it in time and there wasn't anything important in there anyway.
- We walked through the area known for organized crime and survived! :)
- Had gelato at a place RS rec'd called Polo en Nord: the nocioletta (hazelnut) was good, cheaper but smaller than in other cities
- Reminded Bob of Manhattan - lots and lots of people and everyone rushing purposefully everywhere
- Reminded Shally of Taiwan with the crazy, no-rules traffic; laundry hanging out the windows to dry; scooters everywhere...


